Artichokes: Don't pass them by

There's a lot more to the artichoke than you might have thought. And though they look so unquestionably inedible, there is no shortage of ways to cook them.

The vast majority of artichokes, however, are consumed only one way: boiled or steamed and served with drawn butter or flavored mayonnaise. And certainly, there's absolutely nothing wrong with that. The only problem is believing that's where artichokes end.

Granted, there are a few things you need to be aware of when you're cooking them. Artichokes take some preparation. And don't leave out the step of periodically dipping them in water to which vinegar or lemon juice has been added, or they'll turn dark and rusty.

Maybe the most important thing to remember, though, is to pay attention not only to the big old artichokes used for steaming (growers call them "hubcaps"), but also to medium and baby chokes, which have just as much flavor, and, depending on size, little or no inedible choke. All sizes are readily available now at supermarkets all over Long Island.

So what do you do with these little artichokes? They're great simply glazed as a side dish: Quarter them and remove the choke, put them in a skillet with just enough water to cover the bottom and a good glug of olive oil; cook, covered, on medium until they're tender, then remove the lid and increase to high until the liquid evaporates to form a syrup; season as you wish (garlic certainly, other herbs as you prefer).

You can use this technique to start all sorts of dishes -- sauces for pasta, first step in risottos, even vegetable stews. I love the combination of artichokes and potatoes, particularly when you bind them with cream and bacon.