Coconut milk adds an exotic twist to soups

Hoping to jazz up a pot of cream of broccoli soup recently, I decided to see what would happen if I used coconut milk instead of half-and-half for enrichment. One small change in the recipe led to another.

To complement the coconut milk's tropical flavor, I added ginger and scallions to the pot. A few teaspoons of curry powder contributed spice. Before I knew it (literally -- this dish came together in less than half an hour), I had a more piquant version of an old favorite, perfect for the last of the cold nights when I am craving something warm and comforting but also light and bright. I was so pleased with the revised recipe that the next day I made another batch of soup, substituting a bag of carrots I had in the crisper for the broccoli.

Coconut milk is made by cooking fresh shredded coconut with water and then straining the mixture so a smooth liquid remains. I chose light coconut milk (from which much of the coconut oil is removed during processing) over regular coconut milk after looking at the nutritional information printed on the labels. A cup of regular coconut milk has 445 calories and 43 grams of saturated fat. Less than heavy cream, which has 800 calories and 54 grams of saturated fat a cup, but still! A cup of light coconut milk, in contrast, has only 160 calories and 12 grams of saturated fat. Light coconut milk is not a diet food, but considering its nutritional pluses -- it is rich in iron, potassium, folate and vitamin C -- it can certainly be part of a healthy diet, especially when it makes a hefty portion of broccoli or carrots so appetizing.

Curry powder, which is simply a blend of spices, including coriander, turmeric, cumin, fenugreek, and pepper, quickly adds exotic zest to many dishes. If you haven't bought a jar of curry powder since you made curried chicken salad for that neighborhood potluck back in the summer of 1993, it's time to toss it and invest in a new one. For best results in this soup, cook the curry powder briefly in some hot oil along with the scallions, ginger and garlic. This allows the curry powder to release its volatile oils, maximizing its flavor.

I was alarmed by the curdled look of my ingredients as they simmered, but I needn't have been. After a whirl in the blender, the aromatics, broccoli, coconut milk, and chicken broth became a silky emulsion. A squirt of lime juice over each bowl was a brilliant final touch, the acidity of the juice cutting through the richness of the coconut milk and adding yet another level of flavor to an already tasty dish.

CURRIED CREAM OF BROCCOLI SOUP

Vary this recipe by substituting 1 1/2 pounds of peeled carrots, cut into 1-inch lengths for the broccoli. Carrots will need an additional 5 to 10 minutes of cooking to soften them up for the blender.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 scallions, white and light green parts, chopped

11/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger

2 cloves garlic

2 teaspoons curry powder

1 large head broccoli (about 2 pounds), cut into florets, stems reserved for another use

Salt

1 (15-ounce) can light coconut milk

2 cups low-sodium canned chicken broth

Lime wedges for serving

1. Heat vegetable oil over medium-high heat in a large saucepan. Add scallions, ginger, garlic and curry powder and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in broccoli and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, another minute.

2. Add coconut milk and broth and bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover, and simmer until broccoli is tender, about 10 minutes. Puree in batches in a blender. Season with salt. Ladle into bowls and serve with lime wedges on the side. Makes 4 servings.