Viola papilionacea, or common wild violet, can be a pesky...

Viola papilionacea, or common wild violet, can be a pesky lawn weed. Credit: UMass Extension photo

I hope you can help me with a lawn problem. Numerous areas in the lawn have violets. Do you have any solution on how I can get rid of these weeds? - Michael Meyers, East Northport

 

Wild violets are perennial weeds that grow and spread aggressively via underground rhizomes and can be extremely difficult to control. They thrive in moist, fertile soil in shady areas, where grass typically struggles, so they have an easy time bullying your lawn out of its own house. What's more, the weed is more drought-tolerant than the grass so, this summer especially, the grass didn't stand a chance.

If you had just had a few, I would recommend digging them out by hand, repeatedly, taking care to remove all the roots each time. But since you took the time to write, I'm guessing the problem is more extensive.

Here's the thing: Since the violets are in the lawn, you can't use a post-emergent herbicide containing glyphosate, like Roundup, because it would kill your grass.

Instead, look for a product containing dicamba or triclopyr, and read the label to ensure it's indicated for use against violets and safe for use on turf grass.

The product should include a spreader-sticker ingredient, which will help it adhere to the violet's waxy leaves. This should be used during fall, when the weed will be most susceptible to attack. Don't apply near trees or shrubs, because if the chemical is absorbed by their roots, it won't be pretty. Cut back on the lawn fertilizer, too, because it would create an ideal environment for the violets.

But expect only fair-to-good results, as this is one stubborn weed. In the end, you might just have to learn to appreciate its pretty purple springtime flowers.

 

The two jalapeño pepper plants in my small home garden are not doing well. They are growing and flowering but keep losing their leaves, which are turning yellow and brown at the edges before they fall off. Flowers are wilting and falling off, too. I cannot see evidence of bugs of any sort. Do you have any ideas (not enough water, food, etc.)? - Carol Mendez, South Setauket

Sorry to hear about your peppers. It could be a lack of magnesium, but I can't be certain. You might try dissolving a teaspoon of Epsom salts in a quart of water and applying around each plant, or applying dolomite lime.

Peppers also are sensitive to fluctuating temperatures and will drop blossoms if cool nights are followed by very hot days.

You say you don't see any evidence of pests, but you should know that whiteflies, which are a big nuisance this year, can cause leaves to turn yellow, shrivel and drop. Some bacterial diseases (usually carried in infected seed) will cause yellow spots on leaves, which turn brown and then drop.

 

I have an apricot tree in my garden. This year, like last year, many fruits fell while they were still green. Small white worms are inside the fruits. I sprayed last year with malathion, but it was too concentrated and many plants died. Please tell me what to do to treat this infestation because I love this tree. Thank you! -- Daniel Draghici, Queens

 

Ordinarily, if worms have been a problem in the past, dormant oil should be applied in late winter/early spring before the tree sets buds. The next opportunity for treating would be after the blossoms begin to fall, when an insecticide like Sevin could be applied. Obviously, those opportunities have passed, but keep them in mind for next year. For now, you can apply Sevin, which is safe for fruits and vegetables - because it doesn't penetrate plant tissue - every 10-14 days, taking care to follow label directions precisely.

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