Executive Suite: Julie Marchesella

When Queen of Hearts made its debut 18 years ago, it was a plus-size boutique selling a little bit of everything for every "body," but a single request from a good customer changed all that.

"One of my customers had a son who was getting married, and she came to me and said, 'OK, I come to you for my work wear, swimwear, exercise wear. Now my son is getting married, and you have to go into the city and get me a dress,' " recalled Queen of Hearts owner Julie Marchesella.

Formalwear was the one category of clothing she did not offer 15 years ago, but to please her customer Marchesella obliged. Her reputation was all about offering options, so she purchased six dresses for the mother of the groom to try.

"She took the first one, and she went back to friends and family having problems finding plus-size gowns and told them to come to the store," Marchesella said. And Queen of Hearts has been selling plus-size formalwear exclusively ever since.

How did the idea to start Queen of Hearts come about?

I went back to school to study fashion buying and merchandising at Nassau Community College. . . . It evolved out of necessity. Going through a divorce, I was finding myself at the same time, and knowing that there were specific needs that weren't being addressed for plus-size women, including myself, I knew I could make a difference.

What does it take to run a small business?

It takes going above and beyond just courtesy and service to accommodate my customer.

What have been some of your biggest challenges?

I have faced many challenges in my life, but I love what I do so much I really don't see anything here as a challenge. I can provide gowns for women with an 89-inch hip. . . . not many boutiques would even think about accommodating that.

What is one of the most critical elements a business like yours has to have to cater to this market?

The rapport with the manufacturer has to be so good that you have to convince them to work with you on anything. When I gave my manufacturer the measurements for this woman, he said, ''Julie, are you sure?" I said, "Don't worry. I checked the numbers. I really want you to do this. I have to make this customer happy." I had to explain how to cut the fabric. There was no pattern for her; he had to create one.

What has been the most noticeable change in the industry?

The biggest change is ball gowns. Years ago you only found ball gowns worn by women performing in the opera. A woman who is a size 24 would never do it, and there wouldn't be anything for her to try on. Nowadays it's available.

Is there a pet peeve your customers have when shopping in non-specialty stores?

They can't try on plus sizes in a bridal store, [because] a buyer in a general formalwear store has to satisfy many body styles, most of them thinner women. . . . When a woman comes into Queen of Hearts, everything here is a plus size.