Get recipes in mint condition

When a recipe calls for mint, does that mean spearmint or peppermint?

So asked a friend who recently bought a peppermint plant and feared he made the wrong choice.

Answering this question gave me a great excuse to call on Chris Gaipa, whose family owns Marion Gardens, a leading wholesaler of organic herbs.

At the Gaipas' farm in East Marion, there are acres of herbs, hundreds of varieties, including more than a dozen mints.

"People generally cook with spearmint," Gaipa said. "Mojitos, mint juleps -- they're all made with spearmint. Peppermint has a stronger flavor -- more menthol -- with that distinctive cooling effect."

The Gaipas' catalog (thegarden

fusion.com) features straight spearmint as well as Kentucky Colonel, Mint Julep and Mojito, and both regular and variegated peppermint. That's just the tip of the mint iceberg, however: There also is chocolate mint, orange mint and variegated pineapple mint, one of his favorites.

If mint isn't labeled at the supermarket, chances are it's spearmint, whose leaves, Gaipa said, tends to be lighter and more rounded than peppermint's.

Looking for ways to use mint? In the summer, I'll throw a few sprigs of mint into a teapot along with green tea, brew it nice and strong, and serve it over ice. Or I'll make a pesto by processing walnuts and olive oil with half mint, half parsley. When it's smooth but still grainy, add grated pecorino. Chopped mint is a garnish for a salad of water- melon and feta or ricotta salata. Or just add whole mint leaves to a green salad.