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BBQ GOES UPSCALE AT TURTLE

After 16 years as a bastion of barbecue and Southwestern spice, Turtle Crossing in East Hampton has transformed itself into the more upscale Turtle Crossing American Bistro.

The retooled and refurbished eatery now sends out dishes such as Oregon strip loin steak, grass-fed variety; house-made pappardelle with beef sugo, mushrooms and ricotta; Asian-style tuna tartare; local seafood seviche; smoked and grilled quail; and a poached fish of the day.

Devotees of Turtle Crossing's earlier style will be glad to know that barbecued chicken wings (with minted cucumber), fish tacos, duck leg confit, meatball sliders and "Oh Yeah! BBQ ribs" will be available, too.

Turtle Crossing American Bistro, 221 Pantigo Rd. (Route 27/Montauk Highway), East Hampton; 631-324-7166. -- Peter M. Gianotti

OPEN IN ALBERTSON

Mitch and Toni's American Bistro, the much-anticipated new restaurant from Mitch SuDock and Toni Contino, formerly of Bistro M in Glen Head, opened recently in Albertson.

Expect small plates and large, including main dishes such as pistachio-crusted day-boat halibut with creamy polenta, morels, asparagus and fava beans in lemon beurre blanc; and orange-glazed Long Island duck with roasted breast, confit of leg, olive oil-crusted potatoes with red onions, collards and carrots. You'll also find brisket sliders, barbecued ribs, seasonal ravioli, and variations on tuna and salmon tartare. Main courses at M&T's are $22 to $42; appetizers, $9 to $20.

Mitch and Toni's American Bistro, 875 Willis Ave., Albertson; 516-741-7940. -- Peter M. Gianotti

JOHNNY'S FRIES MADE ME BRAKE

I brake for hand-cut fries. Seriously, I wove through two lanes of traffic to turn into the parking lot of the month-old Johnny's Burgers in Centereach.

I do wish the place would offer its burgers medium-rare, but they're available well-done only. That said, my Black Angus cheeseburger ($3.95 for a quarter pounder) was good and greasy -- in the best sense of the word. Owner Anthony DeLuca said he gets the meat delivered daily from a local butcher. Loved the Chicago dog ($3.75), a steamed, all-beef Sabrett's frank on a steamed bun topped with mustard, chopped onions and tomatoes, a pickle spear plus relish and sport peppers (both brought in from Chicago). The mark of authenticity: celery salt.

And, oh, those fries. Even a small order ($2.75) was huge. The cuts were golden brown, piping hot, with the sweet flavor of fine Idaho spuds.

Johnny's Burgers is at 2332 Middle Country Rd., Centereach, 631-676-3826. -- Joan Reminick