Steve Gallagher, 36, is chef-owner of The Trattoria in St. James. He lives in East Setauket.

What's the most surprising thing a customer has ever asked for in your restaurant?My restaurant is not in a very scenic location. We are in a shopping center, facing St. James Beverage. I had a customer request a table for 20 in the parking lot -- he wanted to rent out the restaurant for the night, bring the tables outside. His guests would have had a view of the beverage store and the Dumpster.

How do you dream up a dish?

I spend a lot time reading cookbooks. But a lot of it is also working with what you have. What is that about necessity being the mother of invention?

What would people be surprised to hear that you like to eat?

I really like that fake nacho cheese. I know that it's all chemicals and processed who-knows-what. But you know what, they paid scientists a lot of money to make sure that stuff tastes good, and it really does.

Which Long Island restaurant would you take a chef friend to?

Kitchen A Bistro. I've known Eric Lomando for a long time. I used to eat at his restaurant and then I started working for him. [Gallagher bought Lomando's Kitchen A Trattoria last year and shortened the name to The Trattoria.] In fact, I wanted to work for him because I liked his restaurant so much. He is doing some of the best food on the Island.

What's on your kitchen playlist?

On days when we have a lot of prep to push through, the days when we are in the weeds all day, I like to listen to my '90s grunge and alternative: Soundgarden, Alice In Chains, Pearl Jam and Nirvana.

On mellower days, I like Bob Marley or Jack Johnson. And at least once a week, I let the guys I work with pick, so we listen to Miguel y Miguel and Los Cadetes de Linares.*ssstyle?jack says . . .

How do you handle staff romances?

I met my wife working in a restaurant. She was waitressing and I was the sous chef. We would flirt during service and hang out afterward, and eventually we went on a couple of dates. And then she quit.

She said it was because she didn't want working together to get in the way of our relationship -- although I don't think she loved working there, she may have been happy to have an excuse to leave. However, now we've been married for almost three years and we work together at the restaurant, so the staff romance that I have to worry about the most is my own.

What's your favorite cooking tool?

My chef knife

What's your go-to pizza place?

Luigi's in East Setauket

What makes a great customer?

A great customer is a happy customer. My favorite customers are the ones that are really excited about food.

The people who bring good wine, are with good company and are ready to have a good time.

What do you think of reality cooking shows?

There are too many of them. My wife and I watch "Top Chef," and most seasons are pretty good. But so many shows are really gimmicky. "Cupcake Wars?"

What seasonal ingredients get you going?

I love asparagus. First off, it is delicious. And it is one of the first vegetables of spring; it means really great produce is coming. It also has such a short season that I really try to make the most of it when I can.

Other than where your restaurant is located, which town on Long Island has the best food?

Bay Shore