A salmon crispy taquito at Aja Sushi Asian Fusion, a...

A salmon crispy taquito at Aja Sushi Asian Fusion, a new North Bellmore eatery. Credit: Newsday/Scott Vogel

Most of the time, going to a restaurant is a conscious choice, but there are times when the decision is made for you — someone needs a bathroom break, you’re running low on gas, it’s Monday and every other place is closed. The other day, I was firmly on the road to Jerusalem, or at least Jerusalem Ave., when unforeseen circumstances in N. Bellmore forced me into the arms of an unfamiliar strip center and a tiny, two-month-old eatery known as Aja Sushi Asian Fusion.

What with another new sushi place rainbow rolling our way every five minutes or so, keeping up with the explosion of LI’s raw fish opportunities is no easy task--for the restaurants themselves, neither is standing out from the crowd.

One standout: crispy taquitos, which are wontons shaped into taco shells and fried, then stuffed with a mayo slurry of tuna, yellowtail, or in my case salmon. Despite being packed with meat and avocado, $12.95 seems a bit pricey for a pair of two-bite taquitos, but they sing every note in the snack repertory — they’re crunchy, salty and leave you wanting more, more, more.

Otherwise, Aja offers dozens of classic and hand rolls ($5.50-$10), a few dozen more special rolls ($12-$18), poke burritos ($19.95), and hot entrees like chicken teriyaki ($18) shrimp pad thai ($14) and shoyu ramen ($14.95), along with all your favorite appetizers — a menu as more, more, more as its taquitos.

Aja Sushi Asian Fusion is at 2464 Jerusalem Ave. in N. Bellmore, 516-804-5047, ajasushiasianfusion.com. Opening hours are Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 10 p.m.

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