Gosman's Dock is a fixture in Montauk, much like the...

Gosman's Dock is a fixture in Montauk, much like the famed lighthouse. Credit: John Cornell

With the exception of the lighthouse and the lobster, the best-known symbol of Montauk must be Gosman's. And, on a sunny afternoon, toward season's end, when the crowds have departed, it can be a delightful perch on the water.

Dining here, however, often can be less magical. You'll have to order carefully. The best advice is to stick with the simplest preparations.

The best choices include the obligatory, steamed local lobster. The broiled version sometimes is a bit dry. The shore dinner adds yellowtail flounder, which is good; and baked clams, which are not.

Fried fare tends to be bland. You'll use a bucket of tartar sauce. Best of the fried is calamari. Broiled fluke is satisfactory, as is the basic shrimp cocktail. Skippables: crab cakes, stuffed sole, pork chops. The desserts are routine.

Be prepared to wait on a summer evening. There are enough shops around the dock to keep you busy. --Peter M. Gianotti

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