Long Island empanadas to grab for the beach
Empanadas at Vicky's Casa del Sabor in Lindenhurst. Credit: Daniel Brennan
The dog days of summer are upon us, necessitating escapes to the cool shores of Long Island's many beaches or under shady trees in the picnic areas of our town parks. But let's be honest, what's most important in these BYOF (bring-your-own-food) situations is the noshes. While ceviche and watermelon feta salads sound refreshing in theory, unless you're also willing to lug the ice situation needed to keep them cooler-fresh, you might want to consider easier, handheld, it's-okay-if-they-get-warm vittles. May we suggest empanadas?
Beaches throughout Latin America and the coasts of Spain are loaded with food vendors hawking snacks in summer. Sure, they sell freshly cracked coconuts and tajin-sprinkled fruit, but they also sell empanadas, usually out of well-worn Tupperware containers. They are smart, savvy business people who know that the best kinds of portable summer snacks are the ones that don't melt.
Whether your preference is for baked or fried empanadas, traditional or modern, sweet or savory, these three Long Island women have poured themselves into their businesses and mastered the art of the empanada. Order a tray, don't worry about the cooler, and sit back with summer snack confidence.
Empanadas by Rose
Dayana “Rose” Emmanuel was raised in Suffolk, lives in Massapequa, and spends her days as a health care analyst. But in her spare time, she’s a mompreneur with a fledgling empanada company, Empanadas by Rose. Having raised three kids — two in college, the last in high school — she has always been known for making empanadas with a recipe that comes from her Ecuadorian grandmother and mother, along with warm childhood memories of cooking together. She passed along the tradition to her own children, bringing empanadas along to the kids’ tournaments.
Working from home after the pandemic began, "I had more time to perfect my own recipes and fillings," Dayana explained, moving past the traditional Ecuadorian cheese empanadas of her youth, which are made with wheat flour and fried. After her daughter brought them to the office (more praise), she was finally convinced to launch a licensed food business with her family's help.
Emmanuel sells at the Alston Artisan Market in Ronkonkoma, as well as out of her home — her packages of 10, 20, or 30 empanadas sell for about $30-$75, but it’s her customized platters of bite-sized empanadas that have really taken off. A scant two bites, the minis don’t feel as decadent. She’s mastered fillings like buffalo chicken, "her most popular" flavor, with beef and cheese close behind. She also makes dessert empanadas including Nutella, apple pie and s’mores. Trays of 20 minis cost $32. Delivery is available or pick up in Massapequa. More info: 516-242-3221, empanadasbyrose.com
Vicky’s Casa del Sabor
771 Wellwood Ave., Lindenhurst
Vicky Ramos was making traditional Colombian empanadas out of a beloved takeout spot in North Lindenhurst back in 2011, a decade before the handheld snacks became trendy on Long Island. But making empanadas fell away in 2020, when her 7-year-old son, Dominik, was diagnosed with terminal brain cancer. The deli closed the following year so that Vicky and her partner, Erik Gonzalez, could focus on Dominik, who died in 2021. This past May, to the delight of their Lindenhurst community, Vicky, Erik and their empanadas returned to their former glory.
These days, Vicky's serves about 30 types of empanadas including traditional beef, chorizo and chicken with cheese ($3.50), more playful versions like mac-and-cheese, jerk chicken and Philly cheesesteak ($4) join dessert empanadas including Dom’s favorite, Nutella. Take-away trays of a dozen stuffed empanadas ($48) can be ordered in advance. Since reopening, Ramos said the family has been overwhelmed by the outpouring of support. "We are devastated by everything, but we are also so very grateful to our community.” More info: 631-225-5040, vickyscasadelsabor.com
Nelly’s Artisan Argentine Empanadas
Tanger Outlets, 1088 The Arches Circle, Deer Park
Nelly’s Artisan Argentine Empanadas’ second location at Tanger Outlets in Deer Park joins her original store in West Babylon, which also provides vocational training for adults at the Winters Center for Autism. There, owner Nelly Mourelle uses the commercial kitchen to prep her food for wholesale clients and the Deep Roots Farmers Market in Glen Cove — where she returned in July.
Nelly’s offers the Latin American handheld in 20 ingredient combinations ranging from a classic beef and potato to a playful spinach and artichoke. There are bacon, egg, and cheese empanadas and cheeseburger empanadas. For those who like heat, there’s jerk chicken and spicy buffalo chicken varieties. All empanadas are made in the baked Argentine style rather than fried.
Exclusive to Nelly’s Deer Park location: Pizza. The Roman-style dough, called pinsa, is a light, crispy base for a freshly made tomato sauce piled high with mozzarella cheese and toppings of your choice. A basic pizza will run $9.99 and up to three toppings can be added for $1.99. Empanadas are $5.99 each and boxes of six, 12 or more begin at $29.99. More info: 631-392-1313, empanadas-nellys.com
A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.
