Mosaic lives up to its name with a new approach: a nightly tasting menu for $49.

The cozy New American restaurant currently offers a single, five-course dinner. The kitchen can tweak it to deal with allergies. dietary restrictions and basic dislikes. But the basic menu is set each evening. Everyone gets the same quintet of intricate, carefully balanced and artfully arranged dishes.

Mosaic basically answers every diner's fundamental request: feed me. I tried a terrific dinner that started with a subtle carrot-miso broth with shrimp, soba noodles and sweet bok choy. Next: pan-seared Arctic char with a baked-spinach pie, accented with shaved Gouda; and duck confit and foie gras perched on a root-vegetable pot pie. A tender cut of strip loin steak precedes a delightful dessert plate, with a half-dozens sweets ranging from deconstructed cheesecake and jasmine rice pudding to strawberry panna cotta, a berry smoothie, a brownie and a crisp fruit tartlet.

It's a show.

And considering what you get for the price elsewhere, very impressive.

Mosaic is at 418 North Country Rd. St. James; 631-584-2058. The adventures start at 5:30 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday.

 
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