A poppy-seed bagel is schmeared with lox cream cheese at...

A poppy-seed bagel is schmeared with lox cream cheese at Schmear Bakery & Market in Port Washington. Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

In 2006, when Bill Mulholland was a single guy, he and his brother opened a sports bar, Mulholland’s, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. A decade later, he and his wife Jean moved to Port Washington and, as more befits a new suburban homeowner, he has just opened a bakery-market on Main Street that specializes in bagels and coffee.

Schmear Bakery & Market took over the large storefront that used to be Brother’s Discount Supermarket. After a gut renovation, it emerged a stylish space with soaring ceilings, lots of wood grain, marble and subway tiles.

The back of the store is devoted to bagels, which are baked in-house. Instead of the traditional two-step process (first boiling in a kettle, then baking in an oven), Mulholland opted to use a state-of-the-art oven that steams the bagels before baking them, resulting in a bread whose crust is less chewy and crumb more squishy than the classic New York-style bagel. (Regular bagels are $1 each, 14 for $12; bialys and flagels are $1.25; mini bagels, 75 cents.)

To schmear: cream cheeses enhanced with scallions, vegetables, lox, jalapeño Cheddar and walnut-raisin.

Schmear bakes all its own muffins, doughnuts, cookies, cupcakes and pastries ($2.50 to $4) as well as a selection of breads (white bread, rye, Italian, baguette and challah are all $3.50 apiece). Breakfast sandwiches, deli sandwiches and omelets are served all day. Salads, based on either romaine or spring mix, are $8, which includes as many vegetable or nut mix-ins as you desire. (Cheese or meat costs more.)

A small selection of groceries includes La Quercia “prosciutto Americano” (cured in Iowa), Italian-style sausages from Olli and Creminelli, a handful of cheeses, condiments such as Sir Kensington’s Dijonnaise and cool sodas from Fizzy Lizzy and Boylans. Even the Sprite, Coke and Dr Pepper are in retro-chic glass bottles. Coffee beans are from Brooklyn-based Toby’s Estate, and Schmear’s staff has been trained by Toby’s on how to properly pull an espresso and foam a cappuccino. Brewed coffee and Tazo tea are also available.

Schmear Bakery & Market is open weekdays 5 a.m. to 3 p.m., weekends 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.

83 Main St., Port Washington; 516-439-4077, schmearmarket.com

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