El Sueno Mexican Grill in Huntington Station serves tacos with...

El Sueno Mexican Grill in Huntington Station serves tacos with homemade tortillas. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Always a player on the taco scene, Huntington Station is upping its game. Hot on the heels of the promising new taqueria Mi Viejito Pueblito comes El Sueno (“the dream”), located only one block south.

Half of the shop is given over to a kitchen where burritos are rolled, meat and vegetables sizzle on the grill, taquitos and empanadas sputter in the fryolator, a cone (trompo) of marinated pork revolves on a spit. Just behind the cash register is an imposing piece of stainless steel machinery, bigger than a washing machine and shaped like the Gugghenheim. This is the X-Press Manufacturing tortilla machine, from which issues a steady stream of fresh tortillas.

Housemade tortillas are a rarity on Long Island. The ones here enfold a variety of fillings,from that spit-roasted pork (al pastor) garnished with fresh pineapple, chicharron (pork rinds), braised short ribs and slow-cooked brisket to grilled chicken and steak, fried fish and nopales (cactus pads). Also on the menu: quesadillas, chimichangas, salads served in freshly fried tortilla bowls and a handful of entrees.

The shop’s other half accommodates four small tables. A week old, it’s already doing a brisk business in takeout.

El Sueno currently occupies half the building that once housed Caffe Ole and, before that, La Colombiana. The adjacent space is still under construction, said owner Joel Salas, but when the restaurant is completed it will offer a larger menu of Mexican specialties. Salas is also the owner of two other restaurants, Azulejos in Smithtown and Viva la Vida in Oakdale.

El Sueno Mexican Grill is at 1711 New York Ave., Huntington Station, 631-923-3724.

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