DKNY: Smart, citified and sexy

The runway at DKNY’s downtown Sunday show was screened with skyscrapers and,  appropriately, the collection was lean and distinctly urban, but like a city sidewalk, Donna Karan allowed some cracks in the veneer – it was feminine and subtly flirtatious, too.

Called in program notes, a “Poetic Rebellion,” and described as "sweet and strong, pretty and tough, smart and street," it lived up to its billing.

Openers included terrific coats – shearling, leather or leather-accented. Funnel necks created a covered-up look, but the feminine form was defined by thick, waist-hugging bandeau belts and flippy, shortish skirts, some with oh-so-slightly girlish side peplums were actually sweet.

Texture played a key role, from shiny leathers, glossy embossed crocodile prints and a bit of sheer thrown in for sex appeal. Oh, and did we mention black? A lion’s share was – save for a slash of vivid firebrick red, gray, cobalt blue and a few animal prints.

At the end came some spare, yet seductive, dresses with front and back cutouts for when the DKNY girl wants to let her guard down.