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New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week is underway, and we're inside the tents and all around Manhattan, tweeting photos, video and other updates live all week long. 
From the big designers -- Ralph Lauren, Betsey Johnson, Marc Jacobs, Rebecca Minkoff, Calvin Klein, Diane Von Furstenberg, Michael Kors, Tory Burch -- to potential celebrity sightings -- Beyonce, Jay Z, Kim Kardashian, Lindsay Lohan, Lauren Conrad, Miranda Kerr -- we've got you covered. 
Check out our live feed below, and <a href="http://www.newsday.com/lifestyle/fashion-and-shopping/new-york-fashion-week-1.6899773" style="line-height: 1.6em;" target="_blank">click here</a> for more coverage. 
For mobile users, click the link above to follow along live.

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New York Fashion Week: Celebrities, designer looks, runway updates

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Inspiration:&nbsp; Hotness and yeah more hotness.&nbsp; Yep, Johnson’s invitation featured a red hot water bottle with a message that blared, “It’s cold outside.&nbsp; Betsey’s hot.”&nbsp; Likewise, her runway program, edged in flame graphics, showed a red burner on a stove and touted the message once again:&nbsp; “Betsey’s Hot.”&nbsp; Her concept?&nbsp; Rihanna meets "American Hustle," and Johnson opened up her very deep bag of '70s tricks to underscore the notion. 
The vibe:&nbsp; Wild and kind of wonderful.&nbsp; We’ve covered Johnson’s runway romps for years but this one – wow.&nbsp; Kooky, hootchie and all-out fun with a finale, (to underscore the hotness) featuring two bare-chested firemen with fake fire extinguishers and loud sirens blaring in the background.&nbsp; One downer, they seemed to have held the show for a late-arriving Paris Hilton, who sauntered onto the runway and to her seat after the lights were down and the show about to start. 
Lust-o-meter:&nbsp; There was plenty of fun stuff here for the younger set – little vinyl poodle skirts, hot pants topped with animal print sweaters, sequin suits in red, brazen yellow and red faux furs, and the mini-est of all minis in a variety of iterations. We liked these best when worn with a longer piece like a flowy snakeskin print topper. All this was paired with array of wild shoes, boots and bags, and many looks were styled with striped thigh-high legwarmers or knee socks. 
What the…?:&nbsp; Oh we could go on here but we'll keep it brief -- a painted on silver bodysuit with cutouts…who wears that?&nbsp; And a pair of red sparkly boots looked like it was stolen right off the set of Broadway's “Kinky Boots.” 
Our take:&nbsp; Spunk and spirit are always welcome in the fashion world and you can count on that from Betsey Johnson.&nbsp; And P.S. – yes, she did her signature cartwheel and split for the finale with no problem.&nbsp; &nbsp;

Betsey Johnson Fall 2014: Street Sirens

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The inspiration: Given the old-timey jazz music, and the models’ plastered-down bobs, it seems clear that <a href="http://www.annasui.com/en/">Anna Sui </a>was preoccupied with the 1920s, whether in Hong Kong, Shanghai or even the Chinatown neighborhoods of Los Angeles or San Francisco 
The vibe:&nbsp; Eclectic, sassy, maybe even a little dangerous, with a mix of patterns that's busy-busy-busy-busy-busy-busy-busy-busy. 
The lust-o-meter: High, especially for the Anna May Wong tees, and the camouflage jacquard jackets and parka. The camo shimmers when the light hits it. This being Sui, of course, she can’t resist throwing in a hint of the 1970s (the long tunic-like vests, the tassel pendants). And then there’s the leopard print (on a rabbit fur coat, or faux fur cape). Timeless. 
What the…?&nbsp; If you’re not a committed print mixer, the line may come off as busier than Times Square on New Year’s Eve. One outfit, for instance, combines an Aztec geo print (jacket and skirt), paisley (top) and stripes (vest). There are a few solids, of course—most notably that ruby Mongolian fur coat, yet another of this season’s omnipresent, oversized coats. 
Our take:&nbsp; In lesser hands, this mishmash of prints and textures would look like an explosion in a fabric warehouse, but Sui is as much stylist as designer—she knows what works together, and is bold enough to try it.&nbsp;

Anna Sui Fall 2014: Bobbed and bubbly

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The inspiration: In a word—Ireland.&nbsp; <a href="http://clovercanyon.com">Clover Canyon</a>'s program notes featured a poem by <a href="http://www.nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/literature/laureates/1923/yeats-bio.html">William Butler Yeats</a> (“<a href="http://www.goodreads.com/work/quotes/343611-the-land-of-heart-s-desire-collected-works-of-william-butler-yeats">Faeries, come take me out of this dull world / For I would ride with you upon the wind</a>…”) and praised the greenest of greens, the country spires and the stouthearted spirit of the Irish. No wonder the line is called Celtic Enchantment. 
The vibe:&nbsp; Electric. This label is always high-charged, given its signature digital mash-ups of photo print designs. And talk about colorful—Clover packs more color into a season than Crayola. 
The lust-o-meter:&nbsp; A Celtic plaid slip dress looked great under a net layer of embroidered tulle. And a Book of Kells dress has what looked like shards of photos sprinkled across the fabric, depicting emerald hills and flowers on the heath. 
Hmmm...:&nbsp; Here's something new--a series of robes in glittery, colorful plaids looked comfy, and an intriguing alternative to a jacket or blazer.&nbsp; “There’s a touch of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscar_Wilde">Oscar Wilde</a> in this season’s shawl-collared robes, isn’t there?” the label asked in the program. 
Our take:&nbsp; This line is not for the shy (or those suffering astigmatism), but for all you pattern divas out there, this is the label that’s setting a new standard for fun, inventive, unexpected new prints.&nbsp;

Clover Canyon Fall 2014: Celtic enchantment

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Inspiration:&nbsp; “Visions of billowing bonfires sweeping through the Scottish Highlands,” was the inspiration for Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s runway according to notes. 
The vibe:&nbsp; The show was, as usual, held at the Celeste Bartos Forum at the New York Public Library.&nbsp; Even before the designers get their hands on it, it’s a gorgeous space, with domed ceilings and gold leaf accents.&nbsp; For the show, the floor is thickly carpeted so the room is hushed and elegant. Even Katie Holmes, Tyra Banks and Sarah Paulson, who were in attendance, did not cause much of a stir. 
What they’ll want:&nbsp; A shockingly beautiful white pony hair strapless cocktail number boasted an intricate, trailing vine of copper ribbon work embroidery. Any one of the more fitted silver and blush tartan lace confections. &nbsp;But to us, the stuff that really evoked the Scottish Highlands were the richly embellished kilt-like gowns and dresses – one in teal silk with 3-D mohair embroidery caused people in the audience to bolt upright.&nbsp; As for the bonfire imagery?&nbsp; It was right on as lacework looked singed and a burnt orange feather number with a net turtleneck smoldered. Gorgeous stuff for gorgeous gals -- we can almost guarantee you’ll be seeing some of this on the red carpet come March. 
What the…?:&nbsp; Must say, we were not fans of a gigantic, white multitiered skirt topped by a lace sweater and wrapped with a thick black ribbon with an enormous bow in the back…it read Bo Peep. 
Our take:&nbsp; Swoon-worthy – you could almost (we said almost) hear the bagpipes.

Marchesa Fall 2014: Firepower

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Inspiration:&nbsp; “Big Sur, Big City,” said program notes — the notion being an easy, breezy Cali casual melded with the polish and sophistication that is Kors’ calling card. &nbsp; The vibe:&nbsp; Antennae were up for this big day show at Spring Studios set on Varick Street near the Holland Tunnel.&nbsp; Kors has been an anchor at the tents for many years and his defection to the downtown space caused a seismic reaction (at least from us).&nbsp;&nbsp; Fact is, the scene was serene with sunlight pouring in and a smaller crowd (not that small, and packed to capacity) it was a great setting for this show and underscored the laid back luxe of the lineup.&nbsp; In the house,&nbsp; Michael Douglas, Blake Lively and Freida Pinto. &nbsp; Lust-o-meter:&nbsp; Any number of oversized cashmere pullovers in shades of oatmeal and mocha will be wardrobe treasures next fall.&nbsp; There was loads of supple suede fringe (whoa — a whole fringed skirt), flowy peasant blouses, airy smock dresses and a provocative finale number that included a dramatic Chantilly lace/chiffon blouse with winged sleeves and black trousers that brought to mind 50s hostesses and 70s rock stars.&nbsp; Kors never took the theme too far — it wasn’t gimmicky,&nbsp; just good. &nbsp; Our take: Easy, luxury chic, and why not?&nbsp; Kors, a newly minted billionaire, is, after all, living on easy street. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

Michael Kors Fall 2014: The big easy

Michael Kors Fall 2014:  The big easy

Michael Kors

Inspiration:&nbsp; The designer didn’t spell it out but there was a clear edge to the collection divided into two beautifully executed parts&nbsp; — swanky but slightly toughed up daywear and glam, frothy looks for evening.&nbsp; The former was new for de la Renta, modern and a breakout from a more conservative ladies-who-lunch looks…think a studded leather suit that clung to every curve. 
The vibe: De la Renta shows are always the most posh affairs — a small exclusive gathering of best customers — Barbara Walters among them — and media.&nbsp; The designer sassed up his runway with models donning short, blunt cut wigs kind of reminiscent of Jennifer Lawson’s new ‘do.&nbsp; 
Lust-o-meter:&nbsp; A lush white alpaca hand knit sweater topped a fitted and flared leather skirt — what a great look (and what we wouldn't give to own it).&nbsp; Scribble printed cocktail numbers, a dazzling multicolor boucle jacquard short dress with sequins, and the finale dress worn by supermodel Karlie Kloss (she in a black short wig) -- a tower of ruffled tulle with hand painted polka dots.&nbsp; 
What the…?:&nbsp; A skunk fur coat was jolting yet in sync with de la Rental’s new ‘tude. 
Our take:&nbsp; Luxe glam from the maestro with a new edge.&nbsp; Keep it coming.

Oscar de la Renta: Tale of two pretties

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2014: Tale of two pretties

Oscar De La Renta

The inspiration: “Dark romance … a hint of mystery … easy allure.” These were the succinct phrases Vera Wang used in her program notes to describe her new collection. We might also add “girlish goth” to the mix. 
The vibe: Dark and mysterious. Wang offered a collection for the gal who likes to speak her mind — we loved the scarab sweater with the message "U bug me" — yet still flaunt her feminine side. 
The lust-o-meter: We’re loving the tartan-print shirts and dresses done up in long, flowing chiffon. It was a fun change from tartan plaid’s more typical playgrounds — the kilt or heavy wool coat. Look for glistening beaded tanks and evening wear, even a dash of gold lamé. Fur lovers will go for the haircalf tee or the raccoon vests. Pumps were sky-high platforms worn with plaid socks and necklaces featured long silver strands tangled with insects. (Unique, but clearly for a small subset of her customers.) 
The…huh? A haircalf coat with long-haired goat sleeves struck an odd proportion and seemed … well, a little too Sasquatch-y, but that’s just us. 
Our take: Some of the fur could use a trim, but the chiffon pieces have grace and vitality.

Vera Wang Fall 2014: Dark dames

Vera Wang Fall 2014:  Dark dames

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The inspiration: Narciso Rodriguez seems interested in volume this season — but not huge, bulbous amounts of it, the likes of which we saw a few seasons back from other designers and which had regular shoppers scratching their heads. (How are those of us weighing in at, um, more than 100 pounds actually supposed to wear that?) This volume is different — it’s just the slightest amount of fullness, and only seen in back, really, in the slightly fuller curve of a red cocoon coat, or crepe dress, or the slight arc of a sleeve. 
The vibe: Relaxed, relaxed, relaxed. That slight fullness in the silhouette makes it look like the clothes are draped and flowing behind just a tad, just enough to add a graceful quality to your walk. This is easy, understated glamour at its best. 
The lust-o-meter: What’s so satisfying is that Rodriguez’ artistry and attention to detail still comes in such accessible packages.&nbsp; The figure-skimming silhouettes from seasons past — always very sexy, sure, though not always practical — have been redrawn to allow a bit more room to breathe. Some stand-outs include a chalk wool crepe dress with seaming like a low-slung belt (a 1920s feel). Or the soft gray jacket revealing pink and russet color-block panels in the lining. Or the embroidered dresses (silver, bronze, violet or green) with a sweep of beading over one shoulder, as if brushed on like a dusting of snow. 
What the...? We include this category in all the reviews because there’s usually at least one outfit or look in any collection that’s a bit odd, or doesn’t quite work, or seems astoundingly bizarre. Not here. Not Narciso.&nbsp; 
Our take: His collections the past few years have been real success stories, but this season seems exceptionally well-done.&nbsp;

Narciso Rodriguez: Loose and laid back

Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2014: Loose and laid back

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The inspiration: New co-designers Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier -- who are the first NOT-Marc-himself creatives to helm the brand (he still oversees, but handed them the reins last year) -- clearly had moto-cross, BMX racing and X Games glory on the brain. 
The vibe: Tough. Gutsy. Playful. Energetic. The line is supercharged with color, sporty separates and we-mean-business chunky footwear (BMX boots and zigzag-soled ninja sneakers). 
The lust-o-meter: High, as in Kilimanjaro high, or Sandra Bullock in "Gravity" high. There's a lot to covet here, even if you're not quite ready for the kimono jacket worn with wide culottes resembling boxing shorts. We liked the sweet long tulle ballet dress (though, OK, it's not exactly for wallflowers), the shiny plastic skirts, and lamé dresses blaring the biking trick “Bunnyhop” (Come to think of it, none of these are for wallflowers.) 
What the...? Everyone was doing double-takes when Marc Jacobs walked casually out from backstage and took a front-row seat with the rest of the fashion flock. He was here to cheer on his new co-designers, who have taken over so he can free up more time for his own line and his other juggernaut label -- Louis Vuitton. 
Our take: It was nice seeing Marc front row, cheering on the brand’s new creatives. Even nicer to know there’s so much to cheer about.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2014: BMX chicks &amp; sexy ninjas

Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2014: BMX chicks & sexy ninjas

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Inspiration: A mesmerizing film by Steven Sebring played on a giant screen backing Donna Karan’s runway on Wall Street depicting abstract dancerly bodies. In her notes, Karan said, “I needed to express a woman’s soul and spirit from the inside out.” But, it’s fair to say that Karan used her own iconic pieces as inspiration – these celebrated and updated – all beginning with the bodysuit. 
The vibe: A show that people eagerly attended, among others Hugh Jackman and Katie Holmes, Karan’s long runway was powerful, energetic and dramatic, depicting she-devils and earth angels – sometimes all in one look. Sexy without a hint of crass, sophisticated and dream-like. Virtually every piece had an electric undercurrent – a wow factor – and Karan’s most distinctive signature. 
Lust-o-meter: It was Karan’s greatest hits gone greater… sometimes even Avant Garde, such as the case of the enormous ivory longhaired shearling coat and cowl paired with a jersey bodysuit. One flowy black pant was slit to there, sexy boots went to the thigh and sturdy oversized jackets were paired with ethereal fly away skirts that featured sparkling gold embellishment, crystals and hand-punched holes. Drop-dead gorgeous evening looks interrupted the mostly gray and black parade – ruby, gold, plum in rich velvets and chiffon swirled around bodies as if they were live. There was not a miss in the lineup. 
Our take: What a privilege to view this incredible body of work. When Karan took her runway walk there were tears in her eyes and ours, too. In an industry where longevity and relevance are a rarity, Karan has more than held her own.

Donna Karan: An emotional 30th anniversary / Fall 2014

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The inspiration: Girlie girls, and the charity luncheons or red carpet events to which they get invited. 
The vibe: Serene glamour, whether you’re drawn to the iridescent feathered tops, or the trophy-like gold beaded column dresses. 
The lust-o-meter: High for the “frosty pink” wool coat with brown leather belt that resembles a split-rail fence. Higher for a cardigan embroidered over one shoulder with a delicate pattern of cherry-blossom branches (and paired with an ice mint pleated wool skirt). Highest for the gowns in gold or iridescent violet with a filmy, black net overlay. 
Umm, on second thought: The feathered dress, skirt and cardigan were intriguing at first glance but ultimately didn’t express the kind of soft, whimsical or ultimately feminine energy that feathers usually evoke. These feathers seemed more over-the-top than oh, fabulous. 
Our take: What are you waiting for? Get yourself out to a charity luncheon or red carpet event. Or…just dress like that’s what you do.

Reem Acra Fall 2014: The power of pretty

Reem Acra Fall 2014:  The power of pretty

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The inspiration:&nbsp; First, there’s Kenneth Cole’s fascination with social media, as he proved with an opening video starring Alan Cumming (of “Cabaret” and “Good Wife” fame) and (“SNL’” alum) Rachel Dratch. In a word—hilarious—but more on that in a second. Cole is also interested in “global travel,” and the feeling of liberation one gets from it.&nbsp; So he observed in his program notes, and in this line, which is chockfull of comfy layering pieces—what you’d want if you were lucky enough to be an “urban gypsy” wandering the globe. 
The vibe:&nbsp; Very tongue-in-chic, as his signature video proved.&nbsp; In it, Cumming and Dratch texti and one-up each other on how fabulous their lives are—the spin classes they’re loving, hanging with the Obamas…lies, all.&nbsp; (“My Louboutins are Lou-beautiful,” Dratch texts. “More like Lou-SER,” Cummings replies.)&nbsp; It ends with a question Cole poses for all of us:&nbsp; “What’s real, and what’s for show?” 
The lust-o-meter:&nbsp; This question of persona, and how you want to present yourself to the world, plays out in some stylish gear—particularly the broad blazers or moto jackets paired with pinstripe tops made of soft, float-y chiffon, sometimes asymmetrical and trailing off behind as you walk.&nbsp; The palette is dark—grays, black, a few pops of red—as if “mediated by an Instagram filter,” Cole notes.&nbsp; One stand-out: the herringbone bomber, oversized and plush as a sleeping bag, and cinched at the waist. 
Hmmm...:&nbsp; The footwear tended toward the chunky and utilitarian—combat boots, or lug-soled, snakeskin booties.&nbsp; And then there are those leather and knit fingerless gloves. These are tough-gal accessories, which look hot, sure—but what about women whose tastes are softer, or more&nbsp; conservative?&nbsp; More sifting through the racks will be required. 
Our take:&nbsp; Whether you’re a tough gal or not, there are a slew of fun, eye-catching layering pieces here—some customers may just have to pick and choose more carefully than others.&nbsp;

Kenneth Cole Fall 2014: Tough urban gypsies

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The inspiration: A place called Dunhuang, a revered cultural heritage site in <a href="http://viviennetam.com">Vivienne Tam</a>’s native China. The place is famed for its ancient cave murals, which she’s reproduced in dresses in the form of digital prints. 
The vibe: Very ‘70s, with culottes, elegant brocades and a series of maxi dresses, A-line skirts, eyelet midis. If anyone had suddenly started singing something from <a href="http://www.caroleking.com">Carole King</a>'s&nbsp; “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tapestry_(Carole_King_album)">Tapestry</a>” album, we wouldn’t have been surprised. 
The lust-o-meter: High if you’re fully committed to prints. There were some solids (a prim gray number with high neck that tied in a bow), a serene champagne ribbon-tiered dress with sheer sleeves, or a leather jumper with cord belt, but the majority were prints -- crazy-quilt abstract designs on dresses, separates and tights, some based on the cave drawings, others on a form of Chinese pottery. The lace pieces were also noteworthy, especially a champagne lace applique blouse worn with burgundy leather skirt, or a red lace dress. 
Eh: Some of those maxi dresses seemed a tad too staid and “<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJD8vKov5t0">Stepford Wives-y.</a>” 
Our take: Stick with the prints -- though the mixing of such busy prints on skirts and tights is a look that’s hard to pull off off the runway.

NY Fashion Week: Vivienne Tam's cave craving

Vivienne Tam Fall 2014: Cave craving

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Inspiration: “A glamorous vagabond … she’s on the run with her dreams and colors,” says Diane von Furstenberg in program notes. She went on to explain that this woman – “a painter, a poet, a dancer, a free spirit” – is the muse for her&nbsp; which her famous wrap dress. And on Sunday night, she celebrated the 40th anniversary of the iconic dress, with a fashion show aptly called “Bohemian Wrapsody.” 
The vibe: Set in the new “hot” space – Spring Studios on Varick Street, close to the Holland Tunnel (more on this later) – the crowd was bursting at the seams.&nbsp;&nbsp; The audience was a crazy quilt of notables including Tommy Hilfiger, Nicky and Paris Hilton (natch, in wrap dresses) and Fran Lebowitz. A live performance by singer-songwriter St. Vincent backed the runway, and confetti dropped from the ceiling at the show’s end. 
Lust-o-meter: Sure, sure, there were some great wrap dresses – a couple of gorgeous numbers in the finale selection of 15 gold frocks called “Golden Bouquet” – but von Furstenberg can cut a coat. One brown and blue cocoon job with big abstract leaves that topped a crystal laden tunic: killer. Also great: a stretch velvet sheath with circular cut-outs, and some lush gypsy florals. 
What the…?&nbsp; We’re trying to figure out why designers think showing at Spring Studios amps up the cool factor.&nbsp; Ask most anyone, and they’ll tell you – it’s hard to get to, ungainly and, worst of all, scarily hard to get out of. At one point several elevators stopped working, the stairwells were closed off, and people were being herded into the working elevators like cattle. We were pressed up close enough to the actress Bella Thorne as to read her text messages – not on purpose – but when it’s on your nose, it’s hard not to look. &nbsp; 
Our take: A great show, but we wish it had been in the tents or another venue in which von Furstenberg’s natural exuberance wasn’t hampered by the hassle.

Diane von Furstenberg: Wrapping for 40 years

Diane von Furstenberg celebrates 40 years of her iconic wrap dress

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Inspiration: According to program notes, Tracy Reese was inspired by “juxtapositions – playing the loud and ecstatic against the pragmatic and quietly complex."&nbsp; Nothing illustrated the concept more than Reese’s own outfit&nbsp; –&nbsp;a feminine turquoise dress that bordered on frilly. With high heels it may've read a tad saccharine, but with gold metallic sneakers (yep, sneakers) it got a bit of grit. 
Lust-o-meter: Dark, beautiful winter landscape prints were mysterious and knockout; fuzzy sweaters dappled with sparkles; a neat navy suit that featured a blazer and jogging pants, a floral appliqué chiffon frock and any one of a number of oversized sweaters. Notable: Plain loafers that got a little glory from the glitter that coated the upper portions. 
What&nbsp; the …?&nbsp; Some of the accessorizing was overkill like a big hairy boa tossed over a 50’s style floral frock. It didn’t do it. 
Our take: We’re seeing and liking a lot of this “irregular beauty” concept this season –&nbsp;quirky combos and unexpected silhouettes –&nbsp;and Reese did it brilliantly.&nbsp;

Tracy Reese: Opposites attract

Tracy Reese at New York Fashion Week: Opposites attract

Tracy Reese

Inspiration:&nbsp; Well, of course DKNY is all about celebrating the city, but for Fall 2014 Donna Karan added something real into the mix, as in real people. To illustrate the diversity of the city, regular folks (though beautiful, interesting ones), walked her runway intermingled with model types. There was a tattoo artist, a musician and even a biologist who stalked the catwalk (and stalk they did, unsmiling like most real models), heralded first by a really clever and engaging video that showed them explaining their love of New York.&nbsp; Program notes called the collection “A New York Mash Up," explaining that “New Yorkers have a zillion sides&nbsp;– and so does their style.” 
The vibe: A packed house and excited audience wanting to get a gander at something other than those gorgeous models … but these people – though many were not classically beautiful&nbsp;– were compelling, too.&nbsp; There was a sense of expectation, and Donna delivered. 
Lust-o-meter:&nbsp; Love-fest for the long faux fur vests, a cute little dress hemmed in faux fur, a slouchy black-and-white needle-punched car coat, a funky letter sweater (D, of course) paired with oversize vinyl pants, a black-and-gray tiger-printed minisuit, the fab cobalt-and-black giant hound’s-tooth print turned out on a few looks and our fave – a navy and bright-blue plaid ensemble of a swingy parka and mod little shift that we will buy next fall. 
What the..?:&nbsp; Dude in a knit tiger-striped skirt worn with a blazer: cute but weird. 
Our take:&nbsp; Solid. Salable. See ya at the store. &nbsp;

DKNY gets real: Fall 2014

DKNY gets real:  Fall 2014

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Inspiration: The kingdom of Mustang, obscure, remote, an exotic Himalayan territory that was closed to the world until 1991. 
The vibe: Somber and serene, gigantic brass gongs were centered on the cement runway with models taking a loooooong walk around, demonstrating how beautifully the clothes moved.&nbsp; This, compared to Gurung’s spectacle last season – cartoony, candy-colored frocks set behind plastic – was restrained. 
Lust-o-meter:&nbsp; Shockingly luxe sportswear included waffle knit turtlenecks – these drool-worthy when paired with artfully spliced asymmetrical skirts in chiffon.&nbsp; A paint-stained tapestry print on skirts and pants – lovely – and that bold crimson chiffon gown was topped with a Swarovski-crystal-laden turtleneck was standout. 
What the…: &nbsp; Early on in the show a streaker pounced onto the runway wearing a trench coat, G-string and socks.&nbsp; The models didn’t break stride, though he actually knelt in front of one of them and a security guard ejected him. Turns out he’s done this before – his name is Vitaly Sediuk, the same guy who disrupted the Grammys last year.&nbsp; According to reports, no charges were file against him. 
Our take:&nbsp; Streaker aside, seems like Prabal is evolving and getting down to serious business.&nbsp; This runway was a winner and women will covet most every piece.

Prabal Gurung Fall 2014: The gong show (in a good way)

Prabal

The inspiration:&nbsp; Light, heat and the transformative nature of clothing seemed on the brain. And <a href="http://www.alexanderwang.com">Alexander Wang</a>'s invitation to the fashion show was our first clue.&nbsp; The rectangular card was black on front, with a seat assignment printed on back…along with a message in teeny print: “Touch to reveal front.”&nbsp; Press your hand down on the front of the card and writing materialized out of the black, as if by magic (more likely a chemical reaction triggered by the heat of your hand).&nbsp; Think disappearing ink, but in reverse. The writing confirmed what Wang had announced several weeks earlier--that his show would not be held in Manhattan, but at the <a href="http://duggalevents.com/greenhouse.html">Duggal Greenhouse</a>, a massive structure at the <a href="http://brooklynnavyyard.org">Brooklyn Navy Yard</a>. 
The vibe:&nbsp; High-tech and functional.&nbsp; Boxy utilitarian jackets boasted an array of cargo pockets and loops to hold pens or tools.&nbsp; Handbags resembled canteens. And some over-the-knee boots looked like shields. 
The lust-o-meter:&nbsp; A grouping of satiny jackets with a mountain range print gracing the hem seemed the most accessible.&nbsp; Figure-skimming dresses with large zippers and racing stripes down the sleeves had a youthful appeal.&nbsp; But most intriguing were the…well, we can only think to call them “bootie mules”—they looked like boots in front, mules in back.&nbsp; Imagine, shoe lovers—an entirely new form of footwear!!&nbsp; 
What the…?&nbsp; Wang’s finale featured models wearing what appeared to be black, rubber-like jackets and skirts with a dark paisley print.&nbsp; The models stood stock still, as the round runway began to slowly revolve, and as it turned the fabric slowly changed color before our eyes, transforming into a rainbow of neon hues—again, presumably due to the warmth of the lights.&nbsp; The effect seemed…literally…electric.&nbsp; Has Wang offered us a vision of the future—where one outfit literally can take us from day (vivid when warmed by the sun) to night (more muted, darker, sophisticated by the cool of moonlight)?&nbsp; Wait and see. 
Our take:&nbsp; We’re buying stock whenever his company goes public.

Alexander Wang Fall 2014: A hot new fabric--literally

Alexander Wang

The inspiration:&nbsp; Joseph <a href="http://altuzarra.com">Altuzarra</a> wants to explore notions of luxury, craftsmanship and most notably—color.&nbsp; “It is the first time that color is such a big part of the collection," wrote the designer in his program notes. “It is a lot about joy, a lot about freedom, but also about finding restraint within that freedom.” 
The vibe:&nbsp; Energetic, sexy, sensual—these words come to mind when contemplating the hand-woven tapestry dresses and tops made of soft, thick wools, with strips of neon pink, canary and forest green.&nbsp; 
The lust-o-meter:&nbsp; A series of sumptuous wrap coats with massive lapels keeps the craving level high.&nbsp; They're dramatic, and look so darn warm.&nbsp; And sheath dresses in gray neutral tones pop with strands of unexpectedly vivid shades of magenta and persimmon. 
Say what?&nbsp; Intarsia fur coats—with about 70-plus pieces of fur—are dyed explosive shades of neon, in a criss-cross print that seems to mimic the bright plaid of a standard-issue cloth coat.&nbsp; Fur made to look&nbsp; plaid? A cheeky idea that ultimately&nbsp; came off looking a tad garish.&nbsp;&nbsp; 
Our take: &nbsp;The craftsmanship that goes into his tapestry dresses is undeniable and eye-catching, but he may need to dial down the Technicolor palette just a bit.

Altuzarra Fall 2014: Color &amp; craftsmanship

Altuzarra Fall 2014: Color & craftsmanship

Altuzarra

Before her Fall 2014 runway show, we caught up with designer Monique Lhuillier. She dished on the new collection, fashion week nerves and her number one style tip. 
What is your favorite part of fashion week? 
My favorite part is here, backstage getting ready for the show to start. 
Do you still get stressed out? 
I do. I actually had to get on the treadmill this morning and do a little stretching to just relax a little bit and get it out. 
How is this collection different from ones you've done in the past? 
This one is definitely a darker collection for me. It shows this mysterious and more edgy side of the Monique woman. 
What style advice do you have for women? 
Always wear what looks best on your body. It doesn't matter what the trend is, everyone needs to wear what looks best on them, not what everyone else says they should wear.

Monique Lhuillier at New York Fashion Week: Designer Q&amp;A

Monique Lhuillier at New York Fashion Week: Designer Q&A

Monique Lhuillier

The inspiration: A moonlit Moorish Palace, ornate architectural details and “the mystery of romance and yesteryear.” 
The vibe:&nbsp; Special occasion dresses across the boards with definite red carpet flair – ladylike, feminine but not overly frothy.&nbsp;&nbsp; A new focus on youthfulness, though there was still stuff for mothers-of-the-bride. 
The lust-o-meter:&nbsp; Terrific laser-cut microsuede sheath mini dresses – knockout in flame and navy.&nbsp;&nbsp; A grande dame cape featuring crewelwork and embroidery, a lush cobalt strapless gown with hand-beading detail, a black velvet T-shirt over a sparkling embellished tulle and diamond-shaped knit floor-length skirt. 
Eh:&nbsp; An overly ruffled top on a dress kind of read like hair, and a few of the long-sleeved, loose lace jobs were a tad mumsy. 
Our take:&nbsp; Really lovely dresses and gowns overall and a sure shot for the red carpet.

Tadashi Shoji Fall 2014

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The inspiration: Celebrating 25 years, the powers took a long look back in the archives and simultaneously moved forward hoping to embody the DNA of the brand but still keep it modern. 
The vibe:&nbsp; Easy “affordable luxury that is timeless,” said Lubov Azria backstage.&nbsp; (For the record, her dream client would be Cate Blanchett, for “ her sensibility and how she plays with fashion).&nbsp;&nbsp; One show-goer,&nbsp; “Orange is the New Black” star Samira Whitley, said it best.&nbsp; “I always wear BCBG.&nbsp; No one had to make me wear it to the show.” 
The lust-o-meter: A soft beige shearling tunic paired with wide leg culottes, a black fur high-low cape topping a Bordeaux color-blocked jumpsuit, a black peplum shirt over an A-line with a bold aqua stripe running through, an off-white rabbit-fur cape that read like a fisherman’s sweater and shearling stripes on asymmetrical skirts. 
Say what?:&nbsp; A gigantic striped Mongolian parka was a lot of fun but did conjure Cookie Monster. 
Our take:&nbsp; Tons of imaginative stuff for working women – a bit playful even -- and for gals who just want that special something extra in their wardrobes.&nbsp; It’s both aspirational and attainable.

BCBGMAXAZRIA: A look back

BCBGMAXAZRIA:  A look back

cropped -- bcbg max

Taking it literally:&nbsp; Stars from hit show, “Orange is the New Black” have been popping up at New York Fashion Week, but we haven’t seen a one of them wearing orange. Until Thursday morning when Samira Rawley (she plays “Poussey”) turned out at BCBGMAXAZRIA drenched in it.&nbsp; “You could call it orange. But I would call it coral,” she said of the smart two-piece number provided by the designer. This, her first ever fashion week, had her, “Smiling all day.&nbsp; I can’t stop.&nbsp; I love it.”&nbsp; And, an unsolicited endorsement.&nbsp; “I love BCBG and wear it anyway.&nbsp; No one had to make me.”&nbsp; 
Front row rocker 
“I was duped,” said Ryan Star, the Long Island born rocker, early Thursday morning at the Nicholas K. show. “When they said nine o’clock, I thought they meant nine at night – you know a party, fun.”&nbsp; But here he was taking in the first and earliest show of the day, which included menswear.&nbsp; “I’d call it grunge 2.0,” he said of the collection, noting he would love to wear it.&nbsp; “I liked the leggings under shorts, it’s a new take on same old skinny jeans.”&nbsp; Next stop?&nbsp; “I’m going home to get my snowboard long johns out and cut them like that.”&nbsp; We think he’s going home to sleep.

Ryan Star, Samira Rawley at NY Fashion Week

Ryan Star, Samira Rawley at New York Fashion Week

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By all appearances, designers seem a perfectly confident lot — especially the veterans. At the end of their shows during New York Fashion Week, they take their runway bows looking cool, collected and, of course, chic. &nbsp; Michael Kors stalks his catwalk wearing signature black and proffering a presidential wave. Donna Karan goes glam, often dressed in something from her latest line, doling out kisses to the front row. The team at Badgley Mischka appears entirely unfazed, elevating the word “crisp” to new heights, while Carmen Marc Valvo reads dapper — jaunty even. And Tracy Reese is always ladylike and fresh, a perception amped up by a bouquet of flowers presented by a family member. &nbsp; But behind the scenes, are they all sooooooo buttoned up? Do they break a sweat? How do they stay sane and healthy? We asked this group to give us a little insight into their pre-fashion week world. What we learned? Designers are people, too. Is it always glamorous? Um, not so much. &nbsp; 
DONNA KARAN 
<img align="none" src="http://cdn.newsday.com/polopoly_fs/1.6903624.1391032754!/httpImage/image.JPG_gen/derivatives/display_600/image.JPG" style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px"> 
Photo: Designer Donna Karan works with supermodel Karlie Kloss backstage at the preshow during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Handout 
 Stress factor 1-10: “The scale only goes up to 10?!? Seriously, the stress factor is high, but so is the adrenaline. You just push forward and get it done. Thank God for deadlines.” &nbsp; Fitness/health: “It’s not really pre-Fashion Week, it’s my lifestyle. I’m a yogi and practice every morning. Yoga gives me a sense of balance like nothing else. I also try to mediate — even for a few minutes — to help center myself and find the calm in the chaos.” &nbsp; Eating and cheating: “For the most part, I try to eat well. I start every day with my green juice and have lots of raw snacks and raw cookies packed into my handbag. But I have a serious dark chocolate addiction, too.” &nbsp; All glam? “They should try being me for a week; the stress and deadlines would instantly change their minds.” &nbsp; Good luck charm: “My granddaughter Stefania [she's 10] usually visits the design room at some point. She’s my talisman.” &nbsp; MICHAEL KORS 
<img align="none" src="http://cdn.newsday.com/polopoly_fs/1.6903576.1391032335!/httpImage/image.JPG_gen/derivatives/display_600/image.JPG" style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px"> 
Photo: Backstage at a show from seasons past, Michael Kors is hands-on tweaking every little detail, in this case, a belt. Credit: Getty Images 
Stress factor 1-10: “At this point, after more than 30 years, I’d say I’m about an 8. You don’t have the nerves that you have during the first few shows — you sort of know the routine, but you’ve invested so much time and so much of yourself into these pieces that you’re anxious to send them into the world and &nbsp;[get] the reaction. The night before, I try not to read anything and usually watch something that really lets me turn my brain off. Then, when I wake up, it’s go time.” &nbsp; Eating and cheating: “I eat the same lunch almost every day — either arugula salad or sashimi. But past a certain hour, it’s Doritos and dark chocolate.” 
Good luck charm: “My sense of humor and a great black jacket. ” &nbsp; BADGLEY MISCHKA 
<img align="none" src="http://cdn.newsday.com/polopoly_fs/1.6903619.1391032704!/httpImage/image.JPG_gen/derivatives/display_600/image.JPG" style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px"> 
Photo: Mark Badgley, left, and James Mischka greet the audience after their Spring 2014 collection was modeled during Fashion Week in New York on Tuesday, Sept. 10, 2013. Credit: AP Images 
Stress factor 1-10: Mark Badgley: “We are both Capricorns, and usually try to contain the stress so that it doesn’t leach out to everybody else. Maybe 4 on the outside, 8 on the inside.” &nbsp; Fitness/health: James Mischka: “We just try to keep everybody at the studio well and healthy, especially in the month before a show. We go through a lot of Emergen-C. Mark: “And Purell, especially this year.” &nbsp; Eating and cheating: James: “Since we need everybody every minute before the show, we cater all of the meals so they don’t waste time going out to get it. It’s always a trip around the world: Japanese one meal, Indian the next, then Mexican. But we always sneak in a few steaks at Keens.” &nbsp; All glam? Mark: “If they think it’s all about glamour every day, then they are not very close friends!” James: “And if they do think it is, we let them continue to believe the lie!” &nbsp; TRACY REESE 
<img align="none" src="http://cdn.newsday.com/polopoly_fs/1.6903642.1391032854!/httpImage/image.JPG_gen/derivatives/display_600/image.JPG" style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px"> 
Photo:During the Fashion Week preshow, Tracy Reese does a run-through looking for potential trouble. Credit: AP Images 
Stress factor 1-10: “Oh gosh, can I say 20? But in reality, there is always stress surrounding Fashion Week, because at the end of the day the team is dedicated to putting on the best show possible. We have a lot of shows under our belts, so when the time rolls around each year, we just have to know that we’ve got this handled.” &nbsp; Fitness/health: “We are always in the office long hours leading up to Fashion Week, but I always love to squeeze in a Pilates class in the morning before work. I always feel very balanced throughout the day when I start it with a class. And lots of green juice and kale salads!” &nbsp; Eating and cheating: “For a special treat, I love peanut butter on rice cakes. Always delicious and nutritious.” &nbsp; All glam? “So many think the job is about the glamour and parties. In reality, the fashion industry is demanding and around the clock hard work. My friends know better by now!” &nbsp; Good luck charm: “I have a special cross necklace that I wear daily — I never leave home without it. I guess you could say that is my good luck charm each season as well.” &nbsp; CARMEN MARC VALVO <img align="none" src="http://cdn.newsday.com/polopoly_fs/1.6903629.1391032805!/httpImage/image.JPG_gen/derivatives/display_600/image.JPG" style="padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px"> 
Photo: Glamorous? Not so much. Carmen Marc Valvo tweaks a dress for his line-up last season, sitting on the floor. Credit: AP Images 
Stress factor 1-10: “The stress factor hits at the show when they go into the second look on the runway . . . that’s when the panic hits. The shoe may not fit, or they put the dress on backwards — it’s happened — and one media outlet said it was brilliant! Then, it’s a 10.” &nbsp; Fitness/health: “The month before fashion week, I work out twice a day. I go 20 to 30 miles on the bike depending on my schedule. It’s 15 seconds of fame, and you don’t want to feel enormous on the runway.” &nbsp; Eating and cheating: “I may cheat by having a bacon cheeseburger. It’s something I normally would never eat. I’ll do something bad like that, but Chris &nbsp;[his partner] can’t be around, or he’ll yell at me. I also drink two little glasses of wine, which I sip slowly.” &nbsp; All glam? “They’re clueless. You get maybe 15 seconds of it. It’s hard work, late hours and an ungodly schedule. Every so often, you get to meet someone who is glamorous.” &nbsp; Good luck charm: “I used to wear a stack of bracelets that said things like ‘strength,’ ‘creativity,’ ‘luck,’ but finally they started getting in the way, and I stopped that ritual 10 years ago.”

nd-fashion-desinger-fashion-week-prep

Designer prep: Even the biggest names have pre-Fashion Week jitters, agita and stress 

lsFASHIONDESIGNER

It’s a season of big, athletic events — yesterday the Super Bowl, later this week, the Olympics. Then, there’s New York Fashion Week, which runs (and we mean runs) from Feb. 6-13. &nbsp; This season, it too will require stamina, strength and timing. &nbsp; A slew of major designers have opted out of the centralized location of the Mercedes-Benz tents at Lincoln Center after complaints that the environment there was circuslike. &nbsp; Longtime anchors Michael Kors and Diane von Furstenburg have defected to Spring Studios on Varick Street, where the Holland Tunnel is in view. Vera Wang, Jenny Packham and Tracy Reese are heading to downtown spaces as well, and in the boldest move of all, fashion darling Alexander Wang has abandoned Manhattan altogether, and is showing at the Brooklyn Navy Yards. &nbsp; While Wang told Women’s Wear Daily that the borough move “corres- ponds very well to this season’s creative concept,” getting there will not be half the fun. “It’s like the wild, wild west again, like before we even had the tents at Bryant Park,” says Adam Glassman, creative director of O, the Oprah Magazine. &nbsp; “It’s going to be an interesting season,” adds Fern Mallis, who created a consolidated New York Fashion Week when she was executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “Fair to say it’s a meltdown of the tents? “It certainly seems that way,” says Mallis. “I think the whole industry is in flux.” &nbsp; About 60 shows remain at Lincoln Center, among them Carolina Herrera, Zac Posen, Badgley Mischka, Anna Sui and J. Mendel. And there’s a new affiliated satellite space called “The Hub” debuting at the Hudson Hotel a few blocks away. Among exhibitors there comes first-time Fashion Week participant Jay Godfrey, along with others such as Trina Turk. &nbsp; Though some believe the luster of the whole event has dulled, flashy fashion celebrations still abound. The always-fabulous Heart Truth Red Dress extravaganza is on at the tents and will feature celebrity cat walkers such as Lindsey Vonn, NeNe Leakes and Ireland Baldwin to promote heart health. Donna Karan is marking her 30th anniversary with an evening show on Wall Street, and Target is holding a launch celebration for its Peter Pilotto designer collaboration. The colorful, pricey brand has been worn by luminaries such as Michelle Obama, Rihanna and Kerry Washington, though the lion’s share of the Target collection will run under $60 — something to celebrate, indeed. &nbsp;

Fashion Week: Why major designers are leaving the tents

Fashion Week: Meltdown at the tents

Fashion-DVF-St Vincent

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